New Years just around the corner.
Let’s talk about Champagne, shall we?
YES CHEF!
You know that Prosecco, from Italy and Sparkling Wines from California and other places are not Champagne, right?
RIGHT CHEF!
The Culinary Institute of America recently featured The Washington Post reviewing what many of us in the wine world know – but it’s worth repeating: that most champagne is a blend of three grapes: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Although the two pinots are red grapes, the wines are white because the juice is pressed immediately off the grape skins, where the color resides. There’s no prescribed ratio, and different houses will emphasize one grape over another in their blends. That often is influenced by geography: Pinot noir and pinot meunier are most prominent in the Montagne de Reims area of northern Champagne, around the city of Reims, while the Côtes des Blancs area to the south favors chardonnay (as its name implies). Champagne hounds learn the geography of the towns to pick up on these nuances. If you detect flavors of red fruits (currants and raspberries) and an angular, almost steely character, think pinot noir and pinot meunier. A fuller wine that tastes of peaches and other tree fruits is probably dominated by chardonnay.
But I think the most important thing to know is that there’s only one region in France called Champagne. And that one region, with that specific terroir (ter-whar or ground and sense of place the grapes grow in) makes a bottle qualified to be called Champagne. Get a bottle of bubbly from California and they’re calling it Champagne? Shame on them! It’s sparkling wine. And there IS a real difference. It’s both the grapes and the terroir. It’s like claiming a clementine or a tangerine is an orange… cause they’re all orange! lol
How about this? If you are having people over for New Years Eve? Assign each person a different brand of Champagne to bring. Then do a tasting with some food. Then you will get to taste many options to see what works best. And you know, Champagne is nothing without food, right?
What pairs well with Champagne? Food & Wine gives you a full slide show – but I thought I might summarize it here for you adding my own personal preferences and telling you what I think pairs best with which champagne.
NV Moët & Chandon Impérial suggests Oysters Rockefeller. Mmmmm… I’m ‘all in’! lol
NV Pol Roger Brut Réserve suggests grilled chicken with a fruit glaze Again, you want to make sure the sugar content in the glaze isn’t too high.
1998 Krug Brut suggests breakfast items like eggs and smoked salmon I say any champagne goes best with breakfast. You’ve just got to find someone you want there in the morning! lol
2002 Dom Pérignon, with its’ exceptionally long finish is recommended with salmon/trout/capers/cream cheese. Also the perfect Champagne for a brunch! I would say I’ve had the best of everything. And Dom has never made my list, long finish or not! You’re just paying for the name. Cristal is my favorite Champagne, and that didn’t even make this list!
NV Taittinger la Française pairs with goat cheese Not my favorite, but it could be because I haven’t paired it with the right food.
NV Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé suggests a beet and burrata cheese on perhaps toast points Any Champagne with perhaps toast points and cheese works for me. They give you the beets to contrast the cheese. And the Champagne fills in the holes between the two! lol
NV Laurent-Perrier Brut LP pairs with lightly fried food You’ll see this a lot. Salty, lightly fried. Calamari anyone? Or shall we do french fries and call it a night? ha!
NV Bollinger Special Cuvée says go for a little spicy with this champagne Dear Hearts… Everything spicy goes well with every Champagne! Got ya thinking now?
NV Charles Heidsieck Brut pairs with a light fish and potato recipe with light fresh spices Fish and Chips. Wonder if that comes with a plane ticket to London. I’m all in!
NV Veuve Clicquot Brut – like most champagnes pairs well with salty lightly fried food There’s all different choices with Veuve Cliquot. All good in their own way. Veuve has always been a good backup.
“Champagne has high levels of acidity with a small amount of sugar”.
So really what that means is outside of a steak sandwich or a really sweet dessert, champagne goes with everything. (My personal preference is very old school. Flowers, Caviar, bits of red onion, capers, creme fraiche, toast points…. you get the idea. Romantic and fun). But let’s get back to Food & Wine, and what they have to say about reading the labels.
“Grower wines can be identified by a code that is often on the label in exceedingly tiny print: RM signifies a producer who grew his or her own grapes, while NM refers to a producer (such as a large brand) that bought at least some of the grapes. Champers fiends love the grower wines, but they won’t decline a glass of champagne from a major house such as Veuve Clicquot when offered”.
And what kind of champagne might you enjoy? Again, it’s about knowing what the label says:
“The correct order from dry to sweet is brut nature, extra brut, brut, extra dry, demi-sec”.
So pick what you like …. and remember, if nothing else? Pair salty chips or popcorn with your champagne. Always a big hit. A surprising big hit!
Happy New Year!
Chef Marian